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Care Sheets
These Care Sheets are useful guides with general information on how to care for specific species of geckos. The information contained here has been compiled and revised from various reference sources as well as our first hand experience caring for and keeping these species for a number of years. If you have any comments or further questions the care sheets have not answered, such as breeding information please feel free to Contact Us. We’ve made a printable version available for your convenience.
All geckos listed below are species we currently keep or have kept. Species underlined are ones we have had the privilege of reproducing in captivity.
Leopard Geckos
African Fat Tail Geckos
Malaysian Cat Geckos
Cave Geckos
Rhacodactylus Geckos
Velvet Geckos
Knob Tail Geckos
Giant Day Geckos
Leaf Tail Gecko
Some Care Sheets may not currently be available. Please check back with us as we will be adding new ones soon.
Leopard Gecko
(Eublepharis macularius)
Native Range: Most of the Leopard Geckos in captivity are captive-bred from stock collected in Pakistan and adjacent parts of India in the 1980s. In the wild they inhabit dry areas of desert and scrub-land, preferring rocky areas which provide suitable cover. They spend daytime underground, where conditions are cooler and moist, emerging at night to hunt.
Size: Approximately 3-4 inches long at birth, and weigh in at about 4grams. They average about 9-10” in length as adults and the typical weight is 65-95 grams. There is a genetic “mutation” called the genetic giant and these Leopard Geckos range from 100-150 grams and 10-12 inches (25-28 cm) in length.
Handling: Leopard Geckos rarely attempt to bite, although they may do so if restrained. You should always handle them gently, without pinching or squeezing. Remember that the tail may break off if handled roughly. Although it will regenerate, it will not look like the original. Until accustomed to handling; the gecko should be handled inside the cage or while sitting on the floor. A frightened gecko may leap out of the keepers’ hand and take a fatal fall if held while standing.
Caging: Just about anything can be used, with a ten gallon aquarium or any container of similar size being adequate for a pair. Leopard Geckos cannot climb smooth surfaces like other geckos. They are ground dwelling (terrestrial), so the floor space is more important than the height of the container. Any container should have a secure fitting lid to prevent escape and protect them from household pets.
Substrate: Leopard Geckos will ingest particles of substrate. Therefore, use caution in choosing a substrate to avoid intestinal impaction. Animals can be maintained on plain paper towels or Vita or Calci Sand if you prefer a more natural look. Avoid regular play sand.
Food: A variety of small invertebrates (bugs/worms) are eagerly accepted by Leopard Geckos. A good feeding schedule for Leopard Geckos is every other day or at least 3 times a week. Hatchlings will feed on 2 to 3 week old crickets or mealworms. You should keep a shallow dish of calcium in with them at all times, you can add mealworms to this dish for feeding. Leopard Geckos will lick calcium from this whenever they feel the need. As they grow, provide larger crickets, and mealworms. You may also feed your Leopard Gecko wax-worms, silk worms, goliath worms and the occasional pinkie mouse. Dust food with a calcium powder about twice a week to provide additional calcium for growing bones. Adults may be supplemented once weekly, unless females are producing eggs. This uses huge amounts of calcium, and supplements should be made daily. Dust crickets and other food items one a week with a multivitamin supplement.
Humidity & Water: Provide clean water in a shallow dish. Humidity should be kept low, or respiratory problems can result. Due to the variance in cages and home environments, some geckos may experience shedding problems, particularly the toes. Provide a small plastic container with lid with a whole cut in the side or top for the gecko to enter and exit. Fill it with damp peat moss, coca fiber, or vermiculite. This will help the animal to shed properly. Stuck sheds on toes may harden and constrict the blood flow to the toes, causing loss of the toes.
Heating & Lighting: Provide a thermal gradient by placing a heat pad under one end of the cage. This should allow the gecko to choose from higher temperatures, about 90°F, (32°C) at the warm end, and cooler temperatures, about 75°F (24°C) at the cooler end. Provide suitable hiding areas at both warm and cool areas, so the lizards can feel secure at any temperature. Temperatures below 75°F (24°C) should be avoided. No special lighting is required for these nocturnal geckos.
Captive Behavior: Leopard Geckos in captivity are a little more adaptable to their owner’s schedule than some of their relatives like the Cat Gecko. They are normally nocturnal, but will wake up and come out if disturbed during the day. They seem to recognize people and will come out of their dens to “say” feed me or hold me, and some seem to enjoy being out on their owners, most likely taking advantage of our body heat. I have a few adults that clearly brighten up after being out on my shoulder or hand for a while.
Fat-Tailed Geckos
(Hemitheconyx caudicinctus)
Native Range: African Fat-tails in captivity are captive-bred from stock collected in Western Africa. In the wild they inhabit dry savannah, moist savannah and semiarid scrub-land areas. They spend daytime underground, where conditions are cooler and moist, emerging at night to hunt. Although imports are still common, captive breeding projects have exploded in the last few years in part dew to the emergence of several new morphs and combos there of.
Size: Approximately 2-2.5 inches long at birth, they weigh in at about 3 grams. They average 7-8” in length as adults. On rare occasions large males can exceed 8 inches perhaps pushing 9″. African fat tails in captivity typically weigh in at 65-95 grams.
Handling: Fat-Tails like Leopard Geckos rarely attempt to bite, although they may do so if restrained. You should always handle them gently, without pinching or squeezing them. Remember that the tail as with all geckos may break off if handled roughly or grabbed by the tail. Although it will regenerate this causes unnecessary stress to the animal and should be avoided. Until accustomed to handling, the gecko should be handled inside the cage or while sitting on the floor. A frightened gecko may leap out of the keepers’ hand and take a fatal fall if held while standing.
Caging: A ten gallon aquarium or any container of similar size is adequate for one or two. Never house males together they will fight inflicting damage to each other passiblyresulting in one or both of their deaths. Fat-Tails like other eublepharids cannot climb smooth surfaces like glass,vertical walls or celings like others such as Day Geckos. They are ground dwelling (terrestrial), so the floor space is more important than the height of the container. Any container should have a secure fitting lid to prevent escape and protect them from household pets. One of the most popular for housing multiple geckos are rack systems which most often utilize shoe or sweater box storage containers. They are the most eficiant for mantaining larger numbers of geckos.
Substrate: Fat-Tailed Geckos can ingest particles of substrate wile hunting. Therefore, use caution in choosing a substrate to avoid intestinal impaction. Animals can be maintained on plain paper towels, coco fiber or cypress mulch if you prefer a more natural look. The ladder two do a better job of holding humidity. You can keep most of their enclosures relatively dry and spray an area down a few times a week preferably under one of their hides.
Food: A variety of small invertebrates (bugs/worms) are eagerly accepted by African Fat Tailed Geckos. Some young neonate fattys will do well on a once a day feeding schedule, wile others do better on an every other day schedule. Adults will flourish at 3 times a week when fed one or two appropriate sized well gutloaded prey items. Its good to keep a shallow dish of calcium in with them at all times, you can add mealworms and other prey items to this dish for feeding. Fat Tailed Geckos will lick calcium from this whenever they feel the need. Hatchlings can be maintained on 1/8-1/4″ crickets or small mealworms. As they grow, provide larger crickets, andmealworms. A variaty of pray items are excepted by fattys such as wax-worms, silk worms, goliath worms, a variety of feeder roach species and the occasional pinkie mouse. Dust food with a calcium powder about twice a week to provide additional calcium for growing bones. Adults may be supplemented once weekly, unless females are producing eggs. This uses huge amounts of calcium, and supplements should be made daily. Dust crickets and other food items once a week with a multivitamin supplement. Our Fat-Tails have never cared for mealworms so we maintain ours on crickets and dubia roaches.
Humidity & Water: Provide clean water in a shallow dish. Fat-Tails prefer a little humidity in their enclosures. Provide them with a humidity chamber or a hide area that you spray several times a week. Rack systems will not need to be sprayed as frequently because they hold humidity better then a screen top glass tank. Due to the variance in cages and home environments, some geckos may experience shedding problems, particularly the toes. Provide a small plastic container w/lid with a whole cut in the side or top for the gecko to enter and exit (humidity chamber). Fill it with damp peat moss, coca fiber, or vermiculite. This will help the animal to shed properly. Stuck sheds on toes may harden and constrict the blood flow to the toes, if not treated the toes will become necrotic .
Heating & Lighting: Provide a thermal gradient by placing a heat pad or heat tape under one end of the cage. This should allow the gecko to regulate it body temperature by moving to either the hot side or the cool side (Thermoregulation) . these temperatures should be maintained at no higher then 98°F at the hot end and low 80s in the cool end. Provide suitable hiding areas at both warm and cool areas, so the lizards can feel secure at any temperature. Temperatures below 75°F (24°C) should be avoided. No special lighting is required for these nocturnal geckos.
Captive Behavior: African Fat-Tailed Geckos in captivity are pretty sedentary animals. As adults they are quite calm animals, not making a wasted movement They are normally nocturnal, but will wake up and come out during the day if presented with food. Fatties like leopard geckos also use a specific area of their enclosure for defecation. Adults have proven not to be as prolific as leopard geckos. Hatchlings are not as hardy as their Leopard Gecko cousins unless cared for at optimum conditions. once established and feeding well Fatties can be quite hardy and make excellent pets or a great addition to ones collection or projects.
Cave Gecko
Goniurosaurus Species
Native Range: The range of the Goniurosaurus genus extends from Vietnam, the southern border of China adjacent to Vietnam, the islands of Cat Ba, Hainan, Ishigaki and Ryukyu which include Okinawa and Tokuno. The Goniurosaurus genus to date (2010) includes 12 species. In the wild their habitats range from tropical to subtropical forest areas which provide suitable cover. They spend daytime in caves and rocky outcroppings of limestone and granite as well as rock piles well covered by over growth and fallen debris. Usually these places are found near sources of water such as small rivers or streams, where conditions are cooler and moist, they will emerge at night fall to feed on small invertebrates.
The following is a list of the Goniurosaurus group:
G. Araneus
G. Bawanglingensis
G. Hainanensis
G. Kuroiwae
G. Lichtenfelderi
G. Luii
G. Orientalis
G. Splendens
G. Toyamai
G. Yamashinae
Species recently described:
G. catbaensis
G. huuliensis
Size: Most Cave geckos hatch out at 1.5-2.5 inches long, and weigh anywhere from 1-3 grams. They average 6-9” in length as adults with varying lengths and build between species. The range in captive weights depending on species is 30-55 grams.
Handling: Cave Geckos can be quite skittish, especially if wild caught which until recently was the norm. handling should be kept to a minimum only when necessary. When cleaning their cage or checking their health. If your cave geckos are captive bred more handling may be tolerated. The less stressed they are the more comfortable they will become, thus exhibiting more of their natural behaviors. You should always handle them with care, without pinching or squeezing. Remember that the tail may break off if handled roughly causing unnecessary stress. Although it will regenerate, it will not look like the original. Until acclimated to handling; your gecko should be handled near the floor or close over its enclosure, in case it squirms away it won’t fail far.
Caging: Almost any type of storage container or tank can be used to house Cave Geckos, with a twenty gallon long aquarium (aprx 30”x12”x12”) or any container of similar size being an adequate size for a pair or trio. If using storage containers make sure to drill holes for ventilation. Cave Geckos, like other Eublepharids, cannot climb smooth surfaces such as glass although Cave geckos are more adapted to climbing then Leopard geckos. I consider Cave Geckos to be at least semi terrestrial. Spending most of their time on the ground under cover. But when given the vertical space and objects to climb they will use them, especially at night during hunting activities. Rough rocks like lava rock work well in the enclosure. They can be used for hiding and climbing. Cork Bark flats and tubes are good ideas as well. What ever heavy objects are used make sure they are secure and will not shift and cause harm to your gecko. Any container should have a secure fitting lid to prevent escape. If you are using a glass tank covering it at least half way with plexi-glass may be necessary to keep humidity up.
Substrate: Cave Geckos may ingest particles of substrate while hunting; therefore, use caution in choosing a substrate to avoid intestinal impaction. For Cave Geckos you want a substrate that holds humidity well. Hatchlings and juveniles can be maintained on moistened paper towels. When they have reached a suitable size and have learned to hunt they can be moved onto a coco fiber bedding or sand peat mix if you prefer a more natural look. You may also use Orchid bark of appropriate size making sure the pieces are too large for the animal to ingest.
Food: A variety of small invertebrates are accepted by Cave Geckos. Hatchlings will feed on 2 to 3 week old crickets or roach nymphs. As they grow, provide larger crickets, and roaches. You may also occasionally feed your Cave Gecko a variety of other available feeder insects such as meal-worms, wax-worms, silk worms, and small Goliath worms. Although a diet of well gut loaded crickets and or roaches will be more then enough to keep your gecko healthy and content. A good feeding schedule for Cave Geckos is every other day or at least 3 times a week. More often for growing neonates. Dust food with a calcium powder twice a week to provide additional calcium for growing bones. Adults may be supplemented once weekly, unless females are producing eggs which causes them to use up more calcium, therefore supplements should be made available multiple times a week for gravid females. Dust food items once a week with a multivitamin supplement. Offering food at night when they are active is best.
Humidity & Water: Misting /Spraying the enclosure is good to keep humidity up, and the enclosure slightly moist(which these geckos prefer). Each species of Goniurosaurus have different preferences of environment, from a dryer to more moist habitat. It is good to regulate spraying depending on species being kept and type of enclosure being used. Aside from keeping humidity up the geckos will take advantage of the spray down and drink the droplets of water off the side walls and other surfaces in their enclosure. If not misted daily provide a shallow dish of water.
Heating & Lighting: Cave Geckos do best at temperatures kept between 68° and 79°. Temperatures above 82°for any extended period of time will stress the geckos and is highly likely to cause death. If household temperatures are not at the preferred levels supplemental heating may be provided by either a small wattage night heat bulb or under talk heater attached to a thermostat. Because these geckos are nocturnal and spend much if not all of the day in caves and dark crevices supplemental UVB lighting is not necessary. Although it wouldn’t heart if wanted , provided lights are set on a timer to go of at night and come on in the morning.
Captive Behavior: Because Cave Geckos have not been worked with as extensively or as long as the Leopard Gecko they are not as well none. The average leopard Geckos seem domesticated quite tame and docile, wile Cave Geckos seem to have their wild side. They still remain quit nocturnal unlike their cousins who can be up at all hours of the day. They can be quite wary of being handled. Even handling captive bred specimens is kept to a minimum. If kept dark enough you may notice some activities during the day. We most enjoy watching them hunt at night, scurrying across the vertical coco fibered wall of their enclosures snatching up prey. Cave Geckos share many of the same qualities, habits and behaviors as their leopard gecko counterparts. If you are interested in expanding your gecko collection these would make an excellent choice. If you are looking for a low maintenance pet similar to a leopard gecko yet different a captive bred cave gecko may be the direction to go.
Malaysian Cat Gecko
(Aeluroscalabotes felinus)
Native Range: The Malaysian Cat Gecko, Aeluroscalabotes felinus inhabits the cool montane forests of southern Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore they have also been found on the island of Borneo, in Sarawak, Sabah as well as Vietnam. There is a sub-species of cat gecko referred to as A. f. multituberculatus. Most of the imports today are the A.f. felinus but from all different locations in their range . To date there are several different eye coloration’s. the “normal” dark coloration, silver eyed and green eyed locales.
They have evolved to suit an arboreal lifestyle. They are typically semi-arboreal, being found in shrubs resting on twigs and small branches in the undergrowth of the forests. They are entirely nocturnal. They are equipped with small opposable, retractable claws that aid in climbing small branches and twigs that are part of their habitat. They are a coffee-colored brown, ranging to a rust coloration, with some vertebral striping. There is also a species with silver colored eyes.
Size: Females are always larger, up to 7 inches(17.78cm), males are much smaller, generally up to 4 inches(10.16cm) in length.
Handling: The Cat Gecko is a shy and reclusive species. They do best when handling is kept to a minimum, such as during routine maintenance.
Caging: I believe that Cat Geckos do best when kept individually and only put together for breeding. Some may do well in pairs. The enclosure whether it be a glass tank or a plastic storage container should measure approximately 20 in x 20 in x 20 in (50cm) which would be adequate for a breeding pair. Cork bark tubes or flats provide daytime hides and smaller diameter branches for climbing are always appreciated. Provide a small water dish for adults; though they may not use it, at least they have the option. Cat Geckos get most of their water by collecting water droplets from cage furnishings and the side walls from misting. Live plants like pothos and philodendrons or synthetic plants complete the cage furnishings.
Substrate: Substrate should consist of something that can retain moisture and not be a chocking or impaction hazard. I have had good success with Coco Fiber. You could also use a similar substrate, such as peat moss or peat mixed with plain potting soil.
Food: Hatchling and juvenile geckos should be fed 3-4 appropriately sized food items at least every other day, making sure there is never an accumulation of prey items in the enclosure. Too many food items can result in elevated stress levels. Adults should be fed 4-6 appropriately sized prey items, 3-4 times a week. Care should be taken when supplementing cat geckos. Dusting the food items with calcium twice a week and vitamins once a week for juveniles and gravid females, and once every two weeks with calcium and vitamins for adults is adequate. Development of renal problems can reflect imbalance of water and supplements.
Humidity & Water: Relative humidity should be kept at 75-82%. Humidity may reach 90% on occasion for short periods. Misting is very important to the health and well-being of these geckos, it cannot be overlooked. They will develop a myriad of health issues if their humidity requirements are not met. Use distilled or reverse osmosis water to spray down their enclosure. The ability to properly hydrate these geckos is important. They will take advantage of the spray down after dark, lapping up droplets from the walls and objects in their habitat. If you mist daily, do not saturate. I usually mist mine in the evenings 5-6 days a week. Keep in mind the type of set up you will keep yours in plastic containers hold humidity well so your likely to have to spray down less to much spraying can accumulate and cause saturation. glass tanks with screen covers can be used but moisture evaporation happens faster and the tanks will have to be sprayed more often. I keep mine in glass tanks with screen doors. I prefer spraying more often because it keeps humidity up and gives the geckos more access to fresh water. As apposed to tubs which keep humidity high requiring less spray downs which in turn doesn’t give the geckos as much access to fresh water.
Heating & Lighting: Temperatures should range between 75-78°F (24-26°C) during the day, though they seem to prefer the lower end. Night time temperature decreases of 5-10°F (3-6°C) are fine. Temperatures for A. felinus should not exceed 82°F (28°C). Normal room temperatures with no additional heating should suffice. Cat geckos do not require any additional lighting because of their strictly nocturnal nature.
Captive Behavior: My adult Cat Geckos spend most, if not all, of the daytime in their hides, coming out at night to roam around, perhaps get a drink from the freshly misted enclosure and a bite to eat. They usually become more active after they have been misted. My adults are usually awake and active earlier in the evening when the temperatures are warmer. Hatchling and juvenile geckos tend toward the same habits, though they will curl up and sleep on the plants and small branches that are up off the floor of the enclosure more often than the adults, probably because they can, due to their much smaller size and weight.
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